Identify a target spot. You want to be waist deep in the white water, where the waves have already broken. This is the best place to start when you’re a beginner. Don’t plan on paddling too far out where more advanced surfers might be waiting for a set, but make sure you are in deep enough water to keep from hitting your head if should you fall off your board.
Pick a reference point. Choose a landmark on the shore and glance at it periodically as you move into deeper water. This will help you gauge your distance from shore, and can help to reveal any hidden currents that might be moving you.
Paddle to your spot. When you’re ready to go out into the waves, walk your board out until you’re about waist- or chest-deep, then lie on the board and paddle straight into the waves.
Paddle straight when you are paddling out. If you hit the waves at a glancing angle, you will lose the forward momentum you’ve built up. Stay perpendicular to the oncoming waves and “cut” through them instead.
As you “cut” through a wave, it helps to do a push-up with your upper body as you go over or through the wave.[23] This prevents the wave from pushing you back to shore.
Turn your board and wait for an appropriate wave.
Sit back on your board until the nose is up out of the water.
Kick your legs in an egg beater motion to turn the board around toward the shore. Position yourself in your sweet spot and get ready to paddle for the wave using long, smooth, deep strokes.
When you see a wave coming, get into position as near the peak as you can without appearing to be a “wave hog.”
When you are satisfied that you are in a good position to catch the wave, paddle like you love it!
Start paddling and try to catch the wave.
When you have a good sense of the speed and motion of the wave and you feel that sense that you’ve caught its momentum, take off using the techniques you’ve been practicing.
Keep looking forward as you paddle.
When you turn around, you lose power.
Be quick. You want to catch the wave before it breaks, so you have time to get up on the board.
Be patient. If you miss a wave, just paddle back out and wait for the next one.