Keep your feet planted on the board, your knees bent, your arms loose, and your eyes looking in the direction you are going.
You’re now surfing your first wave! Stay focused and let it carry you in to shore. Keep an eye out for others in the water while you are surfing.
At first, you should ride each wave straight in.
This is a slower way to ride than angling on a wave, but it is easier to get the hang of it.
Try turning when you’re ready.
You will probably want to try angling your board across a wave. Lean into your turn with your body, keeping your center of gravity on the board.
Use your body to gently dip one rail of your board into the face of the wave. This creates friction/drag that will turn the board. Once you catch the right angle, maintain balance and ride down the curl of the wave.
Pick the direction you want to ride across the wave (left or right) early. If the wave is low enough, begin paddling in that direction before the wave hits.
For larger waves, wait until you are getting pulled up onto the wave.
